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Spice
it up in Jamaica
Jamaica, a true Caribbean
classic, has been a popular vacation destination for decades.
In the 1940s and 50s, it was "the" place to go for
the jet set, including Elizabeth Taylor, Errol Flynn and Ian
Fleming, creator of James Bond.
We visited the island to
produce a program for CNN Travel Now, and were entranced by
the lush landscapes, vibrant people and delicious cuisine.
Jamaica's cuisine is as
lively and colorful as the island itself. Many of the flavors
trace their roots far back in history. The best example is
the story of jerk.
Food historians believe
jerk seasoning -- used to liven up chicken, pork or fish cooked
slowly over a hardwood fire -- may have originated with the
Arawak Indians who once populated the island.
The jerk seasoning combination
of salt and peppers began as a means of preserving meats.
Then, in the 18th century, African slaves brought to the island
to work on sugar plantations adopted jerk cooking methods,
added some of their own spice twists. Today jerk is a national
taste treasure.
Jerk seasoning mixes vary
from cook to cook, but they often start with a combination
of hot, sweet and savory spices including: peppers, pimento,
nutmeg, cinnamon, garlic, scallions, and salt. The heavily
seasoned meat is then slow-cooked over a barbecue grill.
The origin of the name
"jerk" is harder to pin down. Some say it originated
from the Arawak language while others believe it describes
the action of the cook jerking the meat -- turning it over
and over again as it cooks on the grill.
All you really need to
know today is that jerk is a taste not to be missed when you
visit Jamaica. It is served just about everywhere on the island
from upscale resort buffets to down home local eateries known
as jerk huts.
Anyone who's ever been
serious about their own backyard barbecue methods can appreciate
the patience and pride that goes into the plates dished up
at the family-owned jerk huts. And, they are the perfect spots
to find out how jerk seasoning blends vary from place to place.
A spread of Jamaican specialties
presented beautifully on a table with a view of the sea welcomed
us to Golden Eye, a luxurious, small hotel near Ocho Rios,
which was the home of Ian Fleming. Traditional dishes included
jerk chicken (of course!), rice and peas, spicy marinated
escoveitch fish, and ackee and salt fish which is known as
the national dish of Jamaica.
Ackee is a small fruit
that when ripe bursts open to reveal soft yellow flesh inside.
When cooked it looks a lot like scrambled eggs but tastes
more like avocado. It definitely falls into that "adventures
in eating" category!
Another evening of culinary
classics unfolded at Belfield 1794, a restaurant located near
Montego Bay in what was the old sugar mill on the Barnett
Estates -- a 300-year-old sugar plantation.
Here we tasted peppery
hot red peas soup, codfish fritters called "stamp and
go," curried goat and braised oxtails.
Sure, you can get cheeseburgers
in this paradise, and even Italian and Mexican dishes at most
resorts catering to U.S. tourists, but part of the exploration
of traveling is trying the local food specialties. And whether
it's a chat about seasonings with cooks at a jerk hut, or
asking islanders about the preparation of ackee and salt fish,
conversations over great-tasting food is one of the best ways
to get to know the people and cultures of the world.
By Carolyn O'Neil
CNN Anchor and Senior Correspondent
August
11, 2000
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