Spice it up in Jamaica

Jamaica, a true Caribbean classic, has been a popular vacation destination for decades. In the 1940s and 50s, it was "the" place to go for the jet set, including Elizabeth Taylor, Errol Flynn and Ian Fleming, creator of James Bond.

We visited the island to produce a program for CNN Travel Now, and were entranced by the lush landscapes, vibrant people and delicious cuisine.

Jamaica's cuisine is as lively and colorful as the island itself. Many of the flavors trace their roots far back in history. The best example is the story of jerk.

Food historians believe jerk seasoning -- used to liven up chicken, pork or fish cooked slowly over a hardwood fire -- may have originated with the Arawak Indians who once populated the island.

The jerk seasoning combination of salt and peppers began as a means of preserving meats. Then, in the 18th century, African slaves brought to the island to work on sugar plantations adopted jerk cooking methods, added some of their own spice twists. Today jerk is a national taste treasure.

Jerk seasoning mixes vary from cook to cook, but they often start with a combination of hot, sweet and savory spices including: peppers, pimento, nutmeg, cinnamon, garlic, scallions, and salt. The heavily seasoned meat is then slow-cooked over a barbecue grill.

The origin of the name "jerk" is harder to pin down. Some say it originated from the Arawak language while others believe it describes the action of the cook jerking the meat -- turning it over and over again as it cooks on the grill.

All you really need to know today is that jerk is a taste not to be missed when you visit Jamaica. It is served just about everywhere on the island from upscale resort buffets to down home local eateries known as jerk huts.

Anyone who's ever been serious about their own backyard barbecue methods can appreciate the patience and pride that goes into the plates dished up at the family-owned jerk huts. And, they are the perfect spots to find out how jerk seasoning blends vary from place to place.

A spread of Jamaican specialties presented beautifully on a table with a view of the sea welcomed us to Golden Eye, a luxurious, small hotel near Ocho Rios, which was the home of Ian Fleming. Traditional dishes included jerk chicken (of course!), rice and peas, spicy marinated escoveitch fish, and ackee and salt fish which is known as the national dish of Jamaica.

Ackee is a small fruit that when ripe bursts open to reveal soft yellow flesh inside. When cooked it looks a lot like scrambled eggs but tastes more like avocado. It definitely falls into that "adventures in eating" category!

Another evening of culinary classics unfolded at Belfield 1794, a restaurant located near Montego Bay in what was the old sugar mill on the Barnett Estates -- a 300-year-old sugar plantation.

Here we tasted peppery hot red peas soup, codfish fritters called "stamp and go," curried goat and braised oxtails.

Sure, you can get cheeseburgers in this paradise, and even Italian and Mexican dishes at most resorts catering to U.S. tourists, but part of the exploration of traveling is trying the local food specialties. And whether it's a chat about seasonings with cooks at a jerk hut, or asking islanders about the preparation of ackee and salt fish, conversations over great-tasting food is one of the best ways to get to know the people and cultures of the world.

August 11, 2000

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