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A Rum
business There was a time not so long ago when admitting to liking
rum was like saying: "You know, there is something to be said for the
music of Chris de Burgh." For anyone outside the black British
population, rum was a treacle-like drink mixed with blackcurrant. Even the
biggest-selling brand wasn't considered as a rum. That was then. Today, premium rum is hot. Mojitos are hip, and there's a revival in Mai-Tais and
well-made Daiquiris, while aged rums are (rightly) seen as ideal partners
for fine cigars. The classic spirit that the trade forgot finally appears to
be making a belated arrival on the UK bar scene. Premium rum may be small beer, but it's outperforming the
spirits category and improved sales by 11% in 2000. Brands such as Mount Gay
(up by 18% year-on-year) and Havana Club (up by 42%) are becoming serious
players. Why rum? "The key words are premium, versatility and
flavour," says Crispin Stephens, brand manager for Havana Club. Deirdre
McMenemy, brand manager for Mount Gay at Maxxium UK, adds: "People are
moving away from their traditional repertoire. When that happens, they tend
to trade up, and premium rum becomes an alternative." So it's time to
appreciate that rum has as much heritage as malt whisky. Rum can be split into two main families - the fragrant
rhums made from cane juice (in Guadeloupe, Martinique and Haiti), distilled
in small column stills; and those made from molasses (everywhere else),
distilled in either tall column stills or pot stills. Needless to say, there are an infinite number of
variations within these two camps. The terroir of each island produces
subtly different types of sugar cane, giving different flavours; the length
of fermentation will also influence aroma; the type of still used will have
a huge impact; while ageing, mostly in former Bourbon barrels, will help to
produce complex spicy aromas, although the humid Caribbean climate means
blenders have to be highly skilled to avoid their spirit becoming nothing
more than a mouthful of wood. Each distiller plays different tunes on those basic themes
and, while you can identify some broad regional similarities - Cuban rum
tends to be sweet and rich, those from Barbados (Mount Gay, Cockspur,
Doorly's) are elegant and fruity, Jamaica traditionally makes boldly
flavoured rums, while Guadeloupe and Martinique specialise in more aromatic,
floral distillates - it is the distiller and blender who dictates the house
style. For example, Wray & Nephew produces a
"traditional" aged rum in the bold Appleton Estate, but also makes
the greatest high-strength white rum, Overproof. It's confusing for the
beginner, but also gives an insight into the huge range of flavours, styles
and approaches which are out there. Expect increased activity this year. Havana Club and Mount
Gay are both gearing up for a major push in cocktail bars, much to the
irritation of Bacardi, whose hegemony over the category is at last being
challenged. "There are great opportunities for premium rums," says
Stephens. "People want variety in their drinks these days, something
different. There's room for us all." The danger is that rum could become nothing more than a
fad. It's up to the suppliers to start educating the trade into the
subtleties, heritage and quality of top rum and exploit this new-found
interest. Source: caterer.com
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