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Caribbean Cook -
The book by Patrick Williams
In
The Caribbean Cook Patrick Williams creates his own Caribbean
style of cooking - one that appeals to everyone looking to
create something new and exciting!
atrick's recipes are modern while remaining faithful to the
characteristic flavours of the West Indies. From Jerk Chicken
and Baked Snapper in Fragrant Spices to Caramelised Pineapple
with Tamarind Ice-Cream and Fried Plantain, there's something
to suit everyone's taste. So why not try out a Caribbean breakfast,
invite your friends round for a barbecue like no other, or
sample Patrick's fruit and rum punches?
Discovered
more about the inspiration for The Caribbean Cook in Penguin
Publishers' interview with Patrick Williams.
Penguin.co.uk: Were you brought up on traditional Caribbean
food?
Patrick Williams: Yes - my mum used to cook different variations
on Caribbean food. As I got older I got a lot choosier, and,
to be truthful, there's quite a bit of it that I don't like
myself - it can be too starchy and heavy.
P:
How did you become interested in cooking?
PW: Although I enjoyed cooking when I was younger I never
thought of being a chef. I used to watch the Galloping Gourmet,
and he made cooking look fun. Then I took cooking at school
as an option - there were plenty of girls in the class and
few boys, which was fun! Then after that I took cooking at
college and things went on from there.
P:
You've been a chef in a number of top restaurants. Did you
focus on Caribbean food when you worked there?
PW: No, although I'd always thought it would be nice to go
somewhere like Criterion or The Square and get Caribbean food
with a twist and enjoy Caribbean food in nice surroundings.
P:
What was the philosophy behind The Caribbean Cook?
PW: I haven't stuck to 'straight' Caribbean food in the book
and people might turn round and say it's not Caribbean cookery
as such. I wasn't brought up in the Caribbean, and I've had
a mix of food influences, from my mum and other relatives
I've visited in the Caribbean, and what I've been taught as
a chef from British and French cuisine.
I
wanted to get away from the authentic view of Caribbean food
- that it's all yams and Jerk Chicken, and plant the seed
of Caribbean cooking in people's minds - they may think, what
a load of rubbish, I can do better. If there are people out
there who have got better ideas or are better cooks than me
on the Caribbean theme great, get on with it. A lot of people
are talking about but I thought I'd do it - that's the difference!
P:
How did you come to writing the book? Did you have a lot of
recipes already written down?
PW: There were a lot of things I had in mind but hadn't actually
tested. I had ideas and wanted to know why certain things
weren't traditionally put together. For example salsas aren't
traditionally used in Caribbean cooking, but they go with
the food. Depending on what part of the Caribbean you come
from you normally have sweet and sour, hot and sour or just
hot! So I was interested in playing around with the flavours.
Also
Caribbean's don't cook using set recipes, which made putting
together ideas difficult. Nothing is measured out accurately,
it's all by eye and instinct, and nothing is ever written
down. It's all a little bit of this and a little bit of that
- then you taste it! And when it comes down to quantities
it makes no difference if there's one person or fifteen -
if it doesn't get eaten, you'll just put it in the fridge
or freezer and eat it over a longer period of time! People
always say in the Caribbean the older the food is the better
it tastes - which is true. If you cook a meal one day, then
eat it the day after it tastes so much better because the
flavours have time to develop.
P:
Are the ingredients that you use in your recipes readily available?
PW: Yes - there's what I call an 'ethnic' aisle in most supermarkets,
plus you can go to your local market or visit your local Indian
supermarket where they have similar spices and vegetables.
In London the three best markets to get to are in Hackney,
Walthamstow and Brixton.
P:
What about fish - there's quite a lot of fish in the book?
PW: I didn't opt for really exotic fish because of price,
availability and so on. I've used mostly Sea Bream, Snapper,
Salmon and Red Mullet and tried to keep to our shores. It's
all about easy access and you'll be able to get good fresh
fish from your local fishmonger.
P:
What's your favourite recipe or combination of recipes from
the book?
PW: That's very difficult. I was quite indulgent with the
puddings, because traditionally Caribbean puddings aren't
that great. I got a lot of inspiration from English puddings.
I love tinned rice pudding and put together a spiced rice
pudding with lots of cinnamon and nutmeg in the book. I've
also put together a recipe for chocolate brownies. They might
not seem traditionally Caribbean, but they're very 'cakey'
and Caribbean's do eat a lot of cakes - like banana cake and
ginger cake, but it's also quite a modern dessert.
Everything
in the book reflects both sides of the coin - mixing the flavours
I've been brought up on with the ingredients that you can
get over here. The whole book is an adaptation of dishes that
are well known and easy to cook. You want to come home from
work and in an hour or sooner you want to be eating.
P:
What about drinks to go with Caribbean food?
PW: There are loads of great drinks - like Cucumber Juice,
Carrot Juice, Guinness Punch, they're all the type of juices
my mum makes on a Sunday.
P:
Guinness sounds more like an Irish delicacy!
PW: Well, it must be something to do with the Caribbean being
colonised - it used to be that stout was drunk a lot in the
Caribbean. That was what the punch was originally made of
- stout, condensed milk, milk, nutmeg, vanilla extract, and
lots of other spices. People do believe if you drink stout
it makes you strong - my mum's always told me to drink half
a pint of Guinness a day.
P:
What is your classic Caribbean comfort food?
PW: There are quite a few things - I like rice and peas with
pigs tails in it - the natural salt from the pigs tails seasons
the whole dish. I also like Jerk Chicken, coleslaw, fried
fish, and a nice soup. But the food tastes so much better
in the Caribbean when you're on a beach, with the hustle and
bustle going on around you, with a guy in a little shack cooking
away and the local fishermen coming in with the fish for him
to cook.
P:
Who or what would you say has been your inspiration?
PW: My mum helped me a lot in making sure I did what I wanted
to do. In terms of cooking all the family cook, and it's a
big part of Caribbean life. I've always looked up to people
like Gary Rhodes; he's very smart in terms of putting menus
together.
P:
Where in the world would you most like to eat and why?
PW: Asia appeals to me, I would love to eat local Thai food.
I'd also love to learn to make sushi in Japan. Really it would
be everywhere that's got something unique to offer. I'd also
like to go to the Caribbean and eat in a top hotel or restaurant
and see what I can pick up from the chefs there.
P:
What food did you hate most as a child?
PW: Cabbage - because it used to be cooked to death. But then
I started cooking properly and realised that cabbage didn't
have to be like that!
P:
What food staples do you keep in your fridge or store cupboard?
PW: I always keep pasta in the cupboard and Kit-Kats on ice!
In the dry store I keep lots of spices, curry powder, pimento
seeds, saffron, plus there's stuff like fresh coriander and
spring onions.
To
be honest I don't tend to eat at home a lot. Eating out is
the key to developing your cooking. It's great to eat other
chef's meals and get inspiration from that and adapt the recipes.
P:
What do you hope the future will be for Caribbean cooking?
PW: I'd like Caribbean food to become like Aussie/Pacific
Rim cooking is now. I went into a cookery bookshop recently
and the guy there was saying the Caribbean shelf, which had
hardly any cookery books on it, is like the Australian shelf
was 10 years ago - and now it's a wall of books! I think Caribbean
food has been marketed and packaged in the wrong way up until
now - but that's about to change!
It's barbie time!
Springs here, and although it's not hot yet, it's time to
get outside and start your annual barbecues! We've put together
a party menu to give you a taster of just some of the delicious
dishes you'll find in The Caribbean Cook ... Roll on summer!
Penguin punch - exclusive recipe!
We asked Patrick to put together a special punch for you to
enjoy , and he took time out of his hectic schedule to oblige!
Not only is it a great Penguin orange, it tastes gorgeous
too!
try out this recipe
Jerk chicken with watercress and cashew nut dressing
This makes a beautiful starter or main course. It is a very
simple, but vibrant and mouth-watering combination.
more about Caribbean Cookery
try out this recipe
Chargrilled baby back rack
Baby back rack - spare ribs of pork.
more about Caribbean Cookery
try out this recipe
Rum and raisin cheesecake
This cheesecake is totally and utterly delicious - you must
try it!
more about Caribbean Cookery
try out this recipe
Your Q & A
We
asked you to send in your Caribbean cookery dilemmas to Patrick,
and here are his answers - from what to do with yams and okra,
to the best fishmongers in London. Thanks to everyone for
sending in your questions, and to Patrick for providing the
answers!
I
often go to Brixton market and see yams there but haven't
any idea of what to do with them. Have you got any recipe
tips or ideas?
Tom, London
Patrick:
Hi Tom, glad to see you trying new things, but treat yam as
you would a potato. You can roast, boil, or fry it, but I
prefer to use it as a base for one of my favourite soups,
Roast Yam with Wild Mushrooms and Curry Oil.
Is
there a dish you can use Okra in so that it doesn't go all
slimy when cooked?
Emma, Nottingham
Patrick:
Well Emma if you find one can you let me know...I believe
it's just the nature of the vegetable, but try not cooking
them too long, or blanch & roast them. The dry heat should
help break down that slimy texture.
What
is that vegetable/fruit that looks like an unripened banana?
And what is the best way of cooking it please?
Sally, Preston
Patrick:
Sally, you got it in one. What you're talking about is unripened
banana, known as green banana. To eat top and tail the banana,
gently score the banana skin; cut the banana in half width-ways
and place into simmering water for 8-10 minutes. Remove from
the water when ready, peel and crush with the butter and olive
oil and finish with black pepper and freshly chopped coriander.
I
love scotch peppers and pumpkin peppers but I'm not sure how
they should be cooked. Can you give me an idea?
Rachel, Surbiton
Patrick:
Rachel, I think you could be talking about scotch bonnet &
pumpkin peppers, which are types of chilli peppers, so it
all depends on how you like to eat your chillies. Some people
like to pickle chillies, some cook them to extract some of
the heat, then there's the brave that like them raw. I tend
to use them in chutneys and salsas, because you can get the
natural chilli flavour, plus other flavours which cool but
complement the chilli.
Can
you recommend some really good (but not too expensive) fishmongers
and seafood specialists in the central and south London areas?
Ida, London
Patrick:
Fishmongers are rather tricky, as fresh fish can be expensive
depending on what you are buying. I tend to go to wholesalers
and I use Daily Fish which is based in Kings Cross, because
if they haven't got it then know one else will. When I can't
make it too Daily Fish I visit the local market which has
a great fishmonger. I really like oily fish i.e. mackerel,
salmon which are both delicious and well priced.
I've
seen this vegetable that looks brown/fibrous and it's shaped
like a log - sounds really unappealing! Can you please tell
me what it is and how it can be cooked?
Harry, London
Patrick:
I'm not too sure from your description Harry, but it sounds
like cassava, a member of the tuber family. I feel it's best
eaten when simply boiled in lightly salted water.
Patrick
Williams can be found at The Terrace Restaurant in Holborn,
London.
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