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The
French phrase “ma ca fourchete” became “makaforshet,” a term
used to describe Creole cooking or food in an early calypso.
The literal meaning is “food stuck between the folk.” In Trinidad
the word means food that is here to stay, that will live on
forever, or more commonly, “leftovers.” In a sense, this is
the true essence of Creole cooking, for leftovers can always
be either “warmed up” or made into another meal, if only a
one-pot soup. There is no doubt that given a choice a Trinidadian
will opt for Creole cooking over and above any other. It is
commendable that in a country where there are some ten different
basic types of cuisine, each and every one, and most importantly
Creole cooking, has remained relatively “virgin.”
Creole
cooking was influenced by the Amerindians, the French West
Indians who immigrated to the island in 1776 from Martinique,
Guadeloupe, St. Lucia and Haiti, the Spanish, the Africans
and of course the English. There are so many Creole dishes
that an entire book would be needed to cover them all. Here
a few of the most important ones will be touched upon.
Creole
fish broth is an excellent soup that can start your day with
“an injection of goodness,” and Trini men claim “it puts lead
in your pencil!” Crab and callaloo soup is made from the leaf
of the daheen plant mixed with okra, local herbs and coconut
milk and boiled down with whole pieces of crab, with a red
pepper wrapped in cheesecloth added for flavour. As a final
touch, the soup is swizzled with a swizzle stick to create
the perfect consistency. Snacoche is a meat and vegetable
stew.
It
originated in the slave yards but is today almost a most in
every home. This dish embodies the true meaning of makaforshet,
as it is often the result of efforts to get rid of all the
leftover bits and pieces in the refrigerator. A Saturday morning
special is Cowheel Soup; a thick soup made from the gelatinous
heel of the cow another dish purported to have an aphrodisiac
effect on men! Pelau is another favourite, a rice dish made
with either chicken or beef which may be served with raisins
and crushed nuts to give it that little bit extra. It is an
essential part of a picnic on the beach or by a river.
Stewed
oxtail, beef, goat or chicken served in a dark brown sauce
made by caramelising sugar is another staple. It is usually
served with rice and pigeon peas and accompanied by very ripe
fried plantains. Buljol is made from bacalao, or saltfish,
soaked overnight in water, boiled, and then seasoned with
diced onions, tomatoes and peppers. It is a Sunday morning
favourite and is served up with bakes. All kinds of “ground
provisions” such as dasheen, sweet potato, cassava, and yam
are also integral to Creole cooking. Red beans, string beans
and legumes like lentils are popular side dishes.
Drinks,
too, are part of the “Creole syndrome.” People drink seamoss,
mauby and numerous fruit juices to wash down the delicious
food. Desserts normally do not play an important role, but
when it comes to “talking Creole,” Casssava Pone and Toolum
cannot be left out.
Today
throughout the island there are many restaurants that serve
Creole food either with a “nouvelle cuisine” touch or strictly
“local” genuine and traditional. This was not always the case.
Trinidadians, like many other islanders, used to always go
home for lunch and stay in for dinner. Today the opposite
seems to be true. However, good home cooking is available
and readily enjoyed by the locals at their favourite eating
spots. One of the most well known establishments is in Port
of Spain, the capital city. The breakfast shed offers Creole
food at its best, cooked before your eyes the traditional
way. The ladies serve up hot steaming dishes, including many
specialties, to eager clients waiting patiently on benches
at long tables shared by people from all walks of life with
one thing in common: a craving to fill their bellies with
Creole cuisine.
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