CRAVINS, A JAMAICAN restaurant at 102-21 Astoria Blvd. U.S. , is one of several new eateries that have sprung up in East Elmhurst, a neighborhood traditionally starved of restaurants. This small place has a few seats along a counter for in-house dining, but mostly does a steady takeout business.

The restaurant serves traditional Caribbean dishes, such as oxtail stew, curry goat, jerk chicken and tripe and beans. The jerk chicken was delicious, with finger-size morsels of tender meat basted with a spicy sauce that leaves your lips tingling. The oxtail stew had a rich, flavorful broth, but the small pieces offered disappointingly little meat. All dishes come with a generous serving of rice and peas (actually red beans) and a vegetable side dish, usually a mix of sliced cabbage, corn and carrots, seasoned with pepper and salt. Lunch orders come with a free glass of lemonade.

Cravins also serves traditional Caribbean breakfasts, such as ackee and codfish, liver and banana, and a variety of porridges, such as those made with plantains, peanuts or hominy corn. Ackee and codfish, a Jamaican favorite, has shredded chunks of salty codfish mixed with pickled onions and green peppers and tossed with ackee, a bright yellow fruit with a rather bland taste. The mixture, an unusual mix of warm, salty and vinegary, is served atop various "starches"-warm potatoes, boiled plantains and yams, and a dumpling, a heavy, glutinous patty made of flour. The flavors are stronger than your traditional American breakfast of pancakes or eggs and potatoes, but it's a belly-warming combination that's nourishing and energizing.

The restaurant also serves desserts and breads. The fried baseball-size dumplings are delicious, with a crisp exterior and rich doughy bread. The plantain tarts, made on the premises, are tasty, with a soft pastry shell wrapping a sweet filling of mashed plantains, flavored and colored pink with cherries. Not overwhelmingly sweet, the pastry has a pleasant fruit flavor.

Recent Openings The Lebanese restaurant Al Dewan, 28-34 34th Ave., Astoria, has closed, and Felfla Cafe, 718-274-6622, has opened in its place.

The Anmol Palace, an Indian restaurant, 84-16 Northern Blvd., Jackson Heights, 718-899-1010, opened about two months ago, offering an extensive Indian menu of tandoori meats and seafood, curries, vegetarian specials and a variety of breads.

The Door Restaurant, 163-07 Baisley Blvd., Jamaica, 718-525-1083, opened in the former location of the Village Door and serves Jamaican cuisine in an elegant setting.

In Brooklyn The Brooklyn Academy of Music (BAM) is presenting gospel brunches every other Sunday through June 17. On Feb. 18, the Lafayette Inspirational Ensemble, which has sung for former President Bill Clinton and at Pope John Paul II's 20th anniversary celebration at St. Patrick's Cathedral, will be performing. On March 4, BAM presents Brooklyn's New Life Tabernacle Choir, and on March 18, the Youth and Teen Choir of Christ Fellowship Baptist Church, which combines gospel with jazz, R&B and hip-hop influences, appears. The brunches are from 2 to 4 p.m. and feature a soul-food buffet. Tickets are $20 for adults, $15 for children, ages 6 to 12, and are free for children 5 and under. For more information, call 718-636-4139.

By Rose Kim. Rose Kim is a regular contributor to Dining Notes.

Source: Newsday.com

Date: 16 Feb 2001